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更新時間:2019/5/8 20:40:58 來源:紐約時報中文網 作者:佚名

A Rare View of the Met Gala
紅毯之外,一個你從未見過的Met Gala

Sometime before sunset, as a crowd of spectators watched from behind barricades across the street, six shirtless musclebound men hoisted a velvet divan onto their shoulders. Lady Gaga had performed a kind of high-art striptease, doffing gown after gown until she reached her fourth and final outfit, but already the next performance was set to begin.

日暮之前某刻,在街對面隔著路障的人群注視下,六名赤裸上身、肌肉發達的男人肩扛著一張絨面沙發床。Lady Gaga表演了某種高雅藝術版的脫衣舞,脫掉一件又一件長裙,直到她的第四件、也是最後一身裝扮,而下一場表演已然即將登場。

On the couch reclined what appeared to be a golden idol, regal in repose. It was, in a way: Billy Porter, an actor who understands the opportunity afforded by an occasion — thus the entourage.

斜躺在沙發上的,似乎是尊金色的神像——一位安詳的君王。從某些方面講,的確是︰那是比利•波特(Billy Porter),一個真正理解場合所賦予的機會的演員——所以有隨從跟著。

The hunks lowered him to the ground, and he stepped off, spread his golden wings and posed for the crowd, which roared. Then he ascended the steps of the Metropolitan Museum of Art, carpeted in pink for the occasion, and plunged into the Met Gala, the fashion industry’s biggest party of the year.

猛男們將沙發放低讓他走下來,他展開金色的雙翼,向眾人擺起姿勢,引得陣陣歡呼。隨後,他登上了紐約大都會藝術博物館的台階——上面專為此次活動鋪設了桃紅色地毯——一頭扎進了Met Gala,時尚行業年度最大的盛會。

The Met Gala is the annual fund-raiser for the Met’s Costume Institute, and tied to its spring exhibition. This year’s, “Camp: Notes on Fashion,” celebrates the pervasive influence of camp. It was up to the evening's co-chairs — besides Gaga, Anna Wintour of Vogue, Alessandro Michele of Gucci, Serena Williams and Harry Styles — and their invited guests to make a case for the theme.

Met Gala是大都會時裝學院的年度籌款活動,與春季時裝展相關聯。今年的主題定為“坎普︰時尚札記”(Camp: Notes on Fashion),以此紀念坎普的廣泛影響。至于這個主題夠不夠格,就要看當晚的聯席主席——除Gaga之外還有《Vogue》雜志主編安娜•溫圖爾(Anna Wintour)、古馳(Gucci)的亞歷山德羅•米凱萊(Alessandro Michele)、塞雷娜•威廉姆斯(Serena Williams)和哈利•斯泰爾斯(Harry Styles)——及他們邀請的嘉賓的了。

“The thing that I love is that this brings dignity back to the form,” Mr. Porter said. “Flamboyance, camp — most of the time, it’s a pejorative. This is a reclamation.”

“我欣賞的是這讓這種形式恢復了尊嚴,”波特說。“花哨炫耀、坎普——多數時候,這是貶義詞。而這是一次正名。”

He had reclaimed camp for himself in a look by the Blonds, a New York label, which sprang, Mr. Porter said, “out of Ryan Murphy saying to me I should do the entire five-outfit montage from ‘Mahogany.’” He’d settled for one.

他自己則在用紐約品牌Blonds為坎普正名。波特說這個造型始于“萊恩•墨菲(Ryan Murphy)跟我說,你應該把《桃花心木》(Mahogany)里的五個造型全都來一遍”。他最後選了一個。

Camp is tricky for fashion, which often is camp without understanding itself to be. Camp celebrates artifice and artificiality, flamboyance and theatricality, but can quickly deflate if forced.

就時尚而言,坎普是不好拿捏的,往往是有坎普的人自己並無知覺。它推崇的是藝術技巧和夸張造作、華麗炫耀和戲劇性,但一旦有意而為就沒了效果。

It proved no less challenging for many of the guests, who came dressed as extravagant versions of themselves. “What is camp?” asked Celine Dion, who arrived in a beaded curtain of fringe by Oscar de la Renta and a peacock-feather headdress. “I got very confused.”

結果證明,它對現場許多嘉賓的挑戰一點也不。 」芩欠追滓隕蓴 嫻淖約毫料。“究竟什麼是坎普?”席琳•迪翁(Celine Dion)問道,她穿著一身Oscar de la Renta的流甦墜株簾和一件孔雀羽毛頭飾抵達現場。“我可是很困惑。”

She paused and leaned in conspiratorially. “And I was not the only one.”

她停頓了一下,然後狡黠地湊上前來。“而且不止我一個。”

Is it camp to be a cheeseburger, as Katy Perry was, dressed as a crystal-encrusted sandwich? (A costume change: She had entered as a chandelier, fully lit.) No, just potentially dangerous. “You’re a slider? Let me eat you!” the rising rapper Lizzo cried with delight when the two met near the entrance. “I hope you’re vegan.”

坎普是個奶酪漢堡嗎,就像凱蒂•佩里(Katy Perry)那樣,身著布滿水晶的“漢堡裝”?(換裝了︰她穿成了全身點亮的枝形吊燈。)沒事,只是有點安全隱患而已。“你是個小三明治嗎?我來把你吃掉!”在入口附近踫到的說唱新星Lizzo欣喜地喊道。“希望你是純素的。”

“This is an Impossible Burger,” a meatless alternative, Ms. Perry replied.

“這是只‘不可能漢堡’(Impossible Burger),”一個不含肉的替代品,佩里答道。

Is it camp to carry around a replica of your own head, as Jared Leto did? Not really, just creepy, though it makes for good selfies. Derek Blasberg took one with both Letos.

坎普是到處舉著自己頭顱的復制品麼,就像杰瑞德•萊托(Jared Leto)那樣?不見得,太毛骨悚然了,雖然用來自拍挺不錯的。德里克•布拉斯伯格(Derek Blasberg)就和兩個萊托拍了一張。

Is it camp to be Joan Collins? We have a winner. Of course it is, and “of course” the theme resonated with her, said Ms. Collins, wafting through the Met’s Petrie sculpture court in white feathers and radzimir by Valentino.

坎普是瓊•柯林斯(Joan Collins)麼?獲勝者揭曉了。當然是了,她“當然”和這個主題有共鳴,柯林斯說,她身著Valentino的白羽毛和拉西米爾絲綢裝款款走過大都會的佩特里雕塑園。

Ms. Collins, especially in her incarnation as Alexis Carrington of “Dynasty,” is a camp legend, invoked by other guests as a North Star — “These are some Alexis Carrington shoulders,” Samantha Barry, the editor of Glamour, said of her outfit — and Ms. Collins accepted such tributes with the grace of a once and future queen.

柯林斯堪稱坎普傳奇,更何況她還化身為《王朝》(Dynasty)的亞歷克西斯•卡靈頓(Alexis Carrington),被其他賓客奉為典範——“這是亞歷克西斯•卡靈頓的墊肩,”《Glamour》雜志主編薩曼莎•巴里(Samantha Barry)這樣評價她的造型——柯林斯帶著永恆女王般的優雅接受了這樣的贊譽。

“I was called camp so many times,” she said. “The camp bitch.”

“我經常被說是坎普,”她說。“坎普風賤人。”

In the courtyard, the crowd swelled to elbow-knocking fullness, a hum of giddiness and a traffic jam of gown trains. “It’s out of this world,” said Max Hollein, the new director of the Met, celebrating his first gala, “and very different, of course.”

院子里擁擠的人群摩肩接踵,嘈雜聲令人暈眩,長長的禮服裙擺來來往往。“真是不得了,”大都會博物館新任館長馬克斯•霍林(Max Hollein)贊美他參加的第一次盛會,“當然,非常與眾不同。”

Even in the world of high-stakes fund-raisers, it’s unusual to see Jeff Bezos, the billionaire founder of Amazon, kibitzing with Awkwafina, a breakout star of “Ocean’s 8” and “Crazy Rich Asians.” (In a life-imitating-art twist, “Ocean’s 8” was a caper comedy about robbing the Met Gala.) “You’re hard to miss!” Mr. Bezos told her merrily.

即使是在高端募捐會的世界里,也很難看到亞馬遜(Amazon)的億萬富翁創始人杰夫•貝佐斯(Jeff Bezos)與《瞞天過海︰美人計》(Ocean’s 8)和《瘋狂的亞洲富人》(Crazy Rich Asians)中的新星奧卡菲娜(Ocwafina)在一起閑聊。(《瞞天過海︰美人計》是一部惡搞喜劇,講的是搶劫大都會藝術博物館的故事,真像是藝術照進生活)。“你太顯眼了!”貝佐斯愉快地對她說。

Everywhere one looked, unlikely wires were crossing. Over here, Shawn Mendes, the pop star, chatting with James Charles, a YouTube beauty vlogger, attired for the occasion in a shirt of chain-mail safety pins. Over there, Tiffany Haddish, the comedian, was offering around fried chicken out of her purse; the designer Gabriela Hearst eagerly accepted a piece.

到處都能看到不可思議的聯系。在這邊,流行歌星肖恩•門德斯(Shawn Mendes)和YouTube的美容博主詹姆斯•查爾斯(James Charles)聊天,後者穿著一件鎖子甲安全別針襯衫。在那邊,喜劇演員蒂芙尼•哈迪什(Tiffany Haddish)從包里掏出炸雞分給大家;設計師加布里埃拉•赫斯特(Gabriela Hearst)熱情地拿過一塊。

“I stay ready, baby,” Ms. Haddish said, black-tie gala or no black-tie gala. “I got your back. That’s from my kitchen, baby.”

不管是不是需要穿正裝的晚會,“我是時刻準備著,寶貝兒,”哈迪什說。“有我在你就放心吧。這都是我自己做的,寶貝兒。”

Further yonder was Lena Dunham in a dress that read “RUBBERIST” and a conspicuous glitter. “Honestly? My life’s dream was to have glitter and Astroglide mixed into a paste that I could then apply all over my body,” she said. “I’m looking to slide into someone’s DMs. Physically.”

遠處是莉娜•達南(Lena Dunham),她穿著一件寫著“橡膠迷戀者”(RUBBERIST)的裙子,上面還有非常醒目的亮片。“沒錯,我這輩子的夢想就是把亮片和Astroglide潤滑劑混在一起,然後涂滿全身,”她說。“我想用身體給人發騷擾私信。”

In such quarters, even those who ordinarily cannot escape attention could, at least momentarily. Gigi Hadid, who came with Michael Kors, Ms. Haddish and Bette Midler, was nearly unrecognizable under a sequined cap and spidery pairs of white eyelashes. “Everyone thinks I’m Bella,” she whispered, referring to her equally ubiquitous sister. “It’s kind of great.”

在這樣的地方,即使是那些通常無法逃避關注的人,至少在短時間內也能做到。吉吉•哈迪德(Gigi Hadid)和邁克爾•科爾斯(Michael Kors)同來,還有哈迪什和貝蒂•米德勒(Bette Midler),後者戴著一頂亮片帽子和蜘蛛般的白色假睫毛,已經幾乎認不出來。“所有人都以為我是貝拉(Bella),”她低聲說,指的是和她一樣無處不在的姊妹。“真是太棒了。”

Dinner was called, but still they kept streaming in: Tom Brady and Gisele B ndchen, Kanye and Kim Kardashian West, Nicki Minaj, Cardi B with a team of four to hoist her enormous red train, Zendaya in a faithful re-creation of Cinderella’s blue gown with a magical stylist-godfather, Law Roach, waving a magic wand.

晚餐開始了,但是人們還在不斷涌入︰湯姆•布蘭迪(Tom Brady)和吉賽爾•邦辰(Gisele B ndchen)、坎耶和金•卡戴珊•韋斯特(Kanye and Kim Kardashian West)、妮琪•米娜(Nicki Minaj)。卡迪•B(Cardi B)帶著四個人提著她長長的紅色裙裾;贊達亞(Zendaya)與有魔法的造型師-教父洛•羅奇(Law Roach)合作,忠實再現了灰姑娘的藍色禮裙,揮舞著魔杖。

“Oh, I love you’ve got a smoke machine,” Kate Moss said to her, when the wand coughed forth smoke, to atmospheric effect. “That’s genius.”

魔杖噴出白煙制造氣氛。“哦,我真喜歡你這個煙霧機,”凱特•莫斯(Kate Moss)對她說,“真是天才的主意。”

It was also camp. “To be camp, you don’t need just a dress,” Mr. Michele, the creative director of Gucci, had opined at the evening’s outset. “You need to bring yourself, you know?”

這也是一種坎普。“坎普需要的不只是一條裙子,”古馳的創意總監米凱萊在當晚一開始就這麼說。“你需要呈現你自己,是吧?”

He’d also brought tables full of guests: one for him and one for his collaborator Dapper Dan, with Mr. Leto and his two heads, Florence Welch, the actress Hari Nef and the playwright Jeremy O. Harris and others among them. But Mr. Michele had shimmied up the carpet with just one, Mr. Styles, whom he’d dressed in a see-through blouse, dangling pearl earring and trousers that crawled, corset-like, up his trunk.

除了自己,還有好幾桌客人是他呈現的︰一桌是他自己的客人,另一桌是他的合作伙伴達帕•丹(Dapper Dan)的客人,其中包括萊托和他的另一個頭、弗洛倫斯•韋爾奇(Florence Welch)、演員哈莉•尼夫(Hari Nef)和編劇杰里米•O•哈里斯(Jeremy O. Harris)等人。但米凱萊只為斯泰爾斯一人設計了服裝,後者穿著透明襯衫,垂著珍珠耳環,褲子像束胸衣一樣高高系在身上。

The start of a new look, perhaps? “This is the start of something, yeah,” Mr. Styles said. “But I trust him. I think clothes are supposed to be fun. And camp is about enjoying yourself.”

也許這是新造型的開始?“是的,這是一個開始,”斯泰爾斯說。“但是我相信他。我認為服裝就應該是有趣的。坎普就是為了讓自己開心。”

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